12/26/09
We ran with full steam as we came down the river 4 days ago. Now we’re wrapping up the excursion a little tired but much better than we came. I know I for one have a greater appreciation for the Amazonian people and other folks who live in similar cultures that must live off the land in such intimate ways. More than that, I appreciate even more the groups who find ways to maintain such cultural nuances while providing education and tools to make life even more sustainable in the ever-developing world. It’s a hard balance to find, but Yachana Lodge has done a good job meshing the two. There are still things that have to be dealt with such as plastic bottles or neighborhood dogs, but such issues can be handled after their thorough work with students at the ecotourism school, the fine lodging and touring experience for visitors and ever growing relationships with the surrounding people.
Today we went to the small market in the village. People bring all their wares in canoes including 50lbs. bags of coffee and cacao. These bags would probably go for $15-20 in Quito, but since only one man will come to purchase food in this remote community he only pays farmers $10 at best. I’ve never see the middleman in action, but I now understand the depth of the problem. These people have no other option except let their crops rot and family starve. As it is they will work extremely hard over the month to make just about $115 per month. Tourism and working for the oil companies makes lots of money. Oil makes up 60% of the GDP for Ecuador but even that work can be misleading since it’s temporary. A job with the oil companies might only be enough work for two weeks, and then a person is left to find another source of income.
We took the canoe to the other side of the river to walk to the Yachana high school and met a father and son who had ridden from the depths of the forest on a horse with three 50# bags of coffee. They would be lucky to leave with $20 that morning. The high school was very impressive with vast acres of land to produce crops for the students and Yachana Lodge, a fish farm, hydroelectric generator, HUGE pigs- I didn’t know they got so big- and a great system for the students including a full computer lab and library.
The evening closed with a new game- Cuarenta (40 in Spanish). It’s a great game but Avel kept making up, remembering, and forgetting rules so it was difficult to understand the game until it was over. He was funny with his trash talk and taunting. We played a tourney with the remaining guests. My dad and Avel dominated- Los Champions! He didn’t let us forget it and made sure it was part of the morning announcements at breakfast the next day. I can’t wait to teach this game though I printing out rules; they seem a little to fluid for my taste.
Monday, December 28, 2009
Friday, December 25, 2009
and an owl monkey in a palm tree
Today started much earlier than most Christmases I remember. Only one other time was I up before 5am to see what Santa brought and I was 6. This morning found us at breakfast at 6am so we could catch the “taxi” to go across the “street.” In other words, we needed to take the canoe across the river in order to board the double-decker bus for bird watching. I wish I could say this was a highlight of the trip but unfortunately, I haven’t acquired the finer taste and patience to look for birds. I will say, however, that I was very impressed with Avel’s ability to see birds everywhere and name all of them without missing a beat. The binocular viewing ended when we reached the opening in the forest to go on another jungle hike. This time we found a tarantula and several very cool birds (that I did see) and Avel taught us how to survive in the jungle. We learned the proper way to make a shelter out of palm branches, which could convert into camouflage when hunting. He also wove a basket for my dad out of 2 small pieces of a palm branch. My dad now has a new water-bottle carrier, very handy and eco-friendly.
Lunch brought all 11 tourists together for a typical jungle meal cooking lesson. We prepared tilapia, cassava, yucca soup, and fired plantains. All this followed a most ridiculously insane part of the meal; grubs. The line from Lion King plays through my head even now, “Slimy yet satisfying.” And so they were. Yes, you guessed it. I was one of two lucky volunteers to take one for the team and eat a LIVE grub, it’s body pulsating in my finger until I chomped on its head and chewed the rest of the slimy and tasteless creature to more swallow-able size. Don’t worry- it’s on film. Following that, which includes lots of squealing and dancing about, everyone tried the grubs, cooked this time with salt. Funny though it sounds, Lion King came back to me with the line, “Are you achin’ for some bacon?” These cooked specimens tasted like bacon and most people rather enjoyed them. The final entrees were fab and again we went to our rooms for a well-deserved nap.
I woke up so excited for the next expedition: tubing down the river. While it’s similar to any tubing experience, the relaxing movement of the steady current felt good on my weary body (Somehow my lungs are expanding so much in the altitude that it’s causing muscle pain in my chest, or that’s what I’m saying at least.) Daniel and I swam a bit more before heading to the showers and then a night walk. Avel led us through the ridiculously dark forest to find a “friendly” scorpion that he insisted I put on my face. Man, I’m a sucker. No harm done though I was a bit startled when he started crawling down my hair. With his nocturnal eyes, Avel saw owl monkeys playing way up in the trees and pointed them out to us with his powerful flashlight. (PS- Another mag flashlight is on my Christmas list next year. Seems that Daniel has claimed mine.)
They served us a special Christmas dinner compete with Sangria, chicken and rice. Oh the familiar. A package of twinkle lights arrived just in time, so the staff put together a tree out of palm branches and birds of paradise for ornaments. It was a lovely evening with chocolate cake to send us to bed. Tomorrow is the after Christmas sale at the local market. We’ll see what kind of deals we can spring. Anyone need a bag of cacao seeds?
Lunch brought all 11 tourists together for a typical jungle meal cooking lesson. We prepared tilapia, cassava, yucca soup, and fired plantains. All this followed a most ridiculously insane part of the meal; grubs. The line from Lion King plays through my head even now, “Slimy yet satisfying.” And so they were. Yes, you guessed it. I was one of two lucky volunteers to take one for the team and eat a LIVE grub, it’s body pulsating in my finger until I chomped on its head and chewed the rest of the slimy and tasteless creature to more swallow-able size. Don’t worry- it’s on film. Following that, which includes lots of squealing and dancing about, everyone tried the grubs, cooked this time with salt. Funny though it sounds, Lion King came back to me with the line, “Are you achin’ for some bacon?” These cooked specimens tasted like bacon and most people rather enjoyed them. The final entrees were fab and again we went to our rooms for a well-deserved nap.
I woke up so excited for the next expedition: tubing down the river. While it’s similar to any tubing experience, the relaxing movement of the steady current felt good on my weary body (Somehow my lungs are expanding so much in the altitude that it’s causing muscle pain in my chest, or that’s what I’m saying at least.) Daniel and I swam a bit more before heading to the showers and then a night walk. Avel led us through the ridiculously dark forest to find a “friendly” scorpion that he insisted I put on my face. Man, I’m a sucker. No harm done though I was a bit startled when he started crawling down my hair. With his nocturnal eyes, Avel saw owl monkeys playing way up in the trees and pointed them out to us with his powerful flashlight. (PS- Another mag flashlight is on my Christmas list next year. Seems that Daniel has claimed mine.)
They served us a special Christmas dinner compete with Sangria, chicken and rice. Oh the familiar. A package of twinkle lights arrived just in time, so the staff put together a tree out of palm branches and birds of paradise for ornaments. It was a lovely evening with chocolate cake to send us to bed. Tomorrow is the after Christmas sale at the local market. We’ll see what kind of deals we can spring. Anyone need a bag of cacao seeds?
Two Poison Frogs
Not even 73 bug bites can dampen this Christmas. Not even torrential down pour and walking through mud. Not even a new jungle food to eat at every meal. This is a holiday to remember.
The last two days have been jam packed, yes indeed, with hikes through the dense rain forest, tubing down the Napo River, dancing with the locals, and eating very strange and crazy things. Yesterday (Dec. 24), we began the day with a hike through the rain forest where our guide, Avel, pointed out lots of flora and fauna, taught us to make a trap for a rabbit out of vines, and caught a poisonous frog for us to take pictures of. The rain came and since we were unprepared without ponchos, he helped us find jungle umbrellas, not hard with leaves the size of large pizzas. For the last hour of our hike, we trekked through the rain. Daniel and I even saw a five foot black snake which our guide promised he would have been able to catch had he send it.
Favorites birds:
Chachalaca- sounds like a chattering bird
Russet-backed Oropendola- it makes a sound with it’s wings that sounds like a high pitched drop of water falling into a pool
Following that excursion, a great meal, and much needed nap, we went to the Healer Man. The Healer Man and Shaman serve similar roles but the Shaman has more power and can only see 2-3 people a day since he has to smoke or take a hallucinogenic to get his power. Healer Men, on the other hand, heal people all day and night, those with “baby illnesses.” They also provide cleansing, eliminating bad energy and replacing it with good energy. The boys did the cleansing while Mom and I took pictures. Afterward, we practice blowing darts into a papaya and chucking spears into a banana stump. Each took their own bit of finesse but Daniel and I made 2 out of 3 tries at the papaya. I was the only one to hit the tree stump (thanks Whitworth T&F for preparing me with Javelin) to the amazement of everyone including our guide. He had called for a competition, but after I nailed the stump in the heart, he lost his nerve and missed. No hard feelings but it did make him think twice about who would be cooking dinner if the woman was out hunting.
The evening wrapped up with a visit with the community Mondana at their Christmas Eve celebration. As I’ve been told numerous times that Christmas is a month long party so all of December is the time to celebrate. So while it was fun to dance and drink last night, the community had celebrated this way many times before. Therefore, when we went over expecting lots of hoopla and a exciting party atmosphere, the 2 light bulb lit mud volleyball court was interesting. The DJ, while working with skipped discs on a super old sound system, still had a few drinks before manning his position, so the music stopped, started, sputtered, and hesitated all night long. I would be dancing in no particular way, mainly just moving my hips and feet a lot, and then have to stop mid-step to stay with the music. No problem though, I had fun dancing with the locals and Avel in the muddy dirt until I was too sweaty to stay and the DJ too drunk to play. All the while children were whirling around sparklers in joyous celebration. Que bueno!
The last two days have been jam packed, yes indeed, with hikes through the dense rain forest, tubing down the Napo River, dancing with the locals, and eating very strange and crazy things. Yesterday (Dec. 24), we began the day with a hike through the rain forest where our guide, Avel, pointed out lots of flora and fauna, taught us to make a trap for a rabbit out of vines, and caught a poisonous frog for us to take pictures of. The rain came and since we were unprepared without ponchos, he helped us find jungle umbrellas, not hard with leaves the size of large pizzas. For the last hour of our hike, we trekked through the rain. Daniel and I even saw a five foot black snake which our guide promised he would have been able to catch had he send it.
Favorites birds:
Chachalaca- sounds like a chattering bird
Russet-backed Oropendola- it makes a sound with it’s wings that sounds like a high pitched drop of water falling into a pool
Following that excursion, a great meal, and much needed nap, we went to the Healer Man. The Healer Man and Shaman serve similar roles but the Shaman has more power and can only see 2-3 people a day since he has to smoke or take a hallucinogenic to get his power. Healer Men, on the other hand, heal people all day and night, those with “baby illnesses.” They also provide cleansing, eliminating bad energy and replacing it with good energy. The boys did the cleansing while Mom and I took pictures. Afterward, we practice blowing darts into a papaya and chucking spears into a banana stump. Each took their own bit of finesse but Daniel and I made 2 out of 3 tries at the papaya. I was the only one to hit the tree stump (thanks Whitworth T&F for preparing me with Javelin) to the amazement of everyone including our guide. He had called for a competition, but after I nailed the stump in the heart, he lost his nerve and missed. No hard feelings but it did make him think twice about who would be cooking dinner if the woman was out hunting.
The evening wrapped up with a visit with the community Mondana at their Christmas Eve celebration. As I’ve been told numerous times that Christmas is a month long party so all of December is the time to celebrate. So while it was fun to dance and drink last night, the community had celebrated this way many times before. Therefore, when we went over expecting lots of hoopla and a exciting party atmosphere, the 2 light bulb lit mud volleyball court was interesting. The DJ, while working with skipped discs on a super old sound system, still had a few drinks before manning his position, so the music stopped, started, sputtered, and hesitated all night long. I would be dancing in no particular way, mainly just moving my hips and feet a lot, and then have to stop mid-step to stay with the music. No problem though, I had fun dancing with the locals and Avel in the muddy dirt until I was too sweaty to stay and the DJ too drunk to play. All the while children were whirling around sparklers in joyous celebration. Que bueno!
Wednesday, December 23, 2009
Juego de Futbol
The trip to the Napo Valley began today floating down the river. The Napo River is a tributary of the Amazon River with thick forests creating beautiful scenery. My parents bought a trip to the Yachana Lodge at a church auction so we get to spend Christmas like the natives (though not roughing it quite so much, we have toilets. There might be a few bugs too many for my roommate, however.)
Before floating down the river we took VIP airlines on a 30-minute flight to the town of Capo. The waiting area for this small airline is unlike any other that I’ve seen. You get your “in flight” snacks before you board the plane and with such accommodations, you can get cappuccino, fruit, cakes, and sandwiches all while sitting on comfy couches. As I said, the flight was short: the 45 people riding in a plane the size of commuter airlines, we were up and down without hassle. There wasn’t even a seat belt demonstration. If you don’t know it by now, ask your seat partner.
We packed very lightly as we didn’t know how big of a boat we would ride in down the river. Sorry, Kareen, I left most of my shoes at home. The fiberglass boat was quite comfortable for our 2.5-hour trek, 2 people wide and long enough for 10 people to lie end to end (do the math). We wore life jackets and held onto our hats as the motorized boat cruised upstream. The river is quite low right now so the driver/captain was very careful to navigate the rocky bed strewn with logs. Spider monkeys and fishermen waved to us along the way until we finally arrived at the lodge.
I will direct you to the website (yachana.com- very impressive) for the full picture of this place but essentially Yachana Lodge is a place dedicated to ecotourism and learning. In fact Yachana means “a place to learn” in the Quichua (a native) language. They have established a high school for technical training in ecotourism, sustainable agriculture, and environmentally friendly entrepreneurship. They have really connected with the community to establish sustainable living while maintaining a high quality atmosphere for others to come and visit and learn from the jungle.
Upon arrival we got a short briefing about the days ahead (breakfast between 6 and 7am!) and the keys to our room. I read just long enough to take a siesta. The rest served me well as our guide, Abel, took us to the butterfly lodge and then to the community. All is well when taking pictures is the main enterprise, but Abel invited me to play in the community soccer game. How could I say no? All my training with my ACC kids and uncles came in handy as I had a few decent crosses and almost a headed-in goal. I need work especially when running through mud, but all and all, it was a great time. Unfortunately our team lost 3-2 so we had to buy the other team 2 Cokes to share. Since they had about 17 people to our 10, I only hope the Cokes were shared equally. I was so wet from the humidity and muddy (again memories of ACC in NC flooded back), a shower was is order before dinner. Three courses later with an Amazon chocolate cake as the finale, I am ready for bed. The 10pm lights out won’t have to be enforced this week (10pm is when the generator shuts off). Even witha siesta in the daily schedule, rest is sure to come easy.
Before floating down the river we took VIP airlines on a 30-minute flight to the town of Capo. The waiting area for this small airline is unlike any other that I’ve seen. You get your “in flight” snacks before you board the plane and with such accommodations, you can get cappuccino, fruit, cakes, and sandwiches all while sitting on comfy couches. As I said, the flight was short: the 45 people riding in a plane the size of commuter airlines, we were up and down without hassle. There wasn’t even a seat belt demonstration. If you don’t know it by now, ask your seat partner.
We packed very lightly as we didn’t know how big of a boat we would ride in down the river. Sorry, Kareen, I left most of my shoes at home. The fiberglass boat was quite comfortable for our 2.5-hour trek, 2 people wide and long enough for 10 people to lie end to end (do the math). We wore life jackets and held onto our hats as the motorized boat cruised upstream. The river is quite low right now so the driver/captain was very careful to navigate the rocky bed strewn with logs. Spider monkeys and fishermen waved to us along the way until we finally arrived at the lodge.
I will direct you to the website (yachana.com- very impressive) for the full picture of this place but essentially Yachana Lodge is a place dedicated to ecotourism and learning. In fact Yachana means “a place to learn” in the Quichua (a native) language. They have established a high school for technical training in ecotourism, sustainable agriculture, and environmentally friendly entrepreneurship. They have really connected with the community to establish sustainable living while maintaining a high quality atmosphere for others to come and visit and learn from the jungle.
Upon arrival we got a short briefing about the days ahead (breakfast between 6 and 7am!) and the keys to our room. I read just long enough to take a siesta. The rest served me well as our guide, Abel, took us to the butterfly lodge and then to the community. All is well when taking pictures is the main enterprise, but Abel invited me to play in the community soccer game. How could I say no? All my training with my ACC kids and uncles came in handy as I had a few decent crosses and almost a headed-in goal. I need work especially when running through mud, but all and all, it was a great time. Unfortunately our team lost 3-2 so we had to buy the other team 2 Cokes to share. Since they had about 17 people to our 10, I only hope the Cokes were shared equally. I was so wet from the humidity and muddy (again memories of ACC in NC flooded back), a shower was is order before dinner. Three courses later with an Amazon chocolate cake as the finale, I am ready for bed. The 10pm lights out won’t have to be enforced this week (10pm is when the generator shuts off). Even witha siesta in the daily schedule, rest is sure to come easy.
Tuesday, December 22, 2009
Old Town
Old Town lies in the middle of several hills, at the base of the Panacilla and in between valleys. Here lie the beginnings of the city or at least the colonial period. A huge basilica lies at the center and its huge bell towers ring out the hour. We went inside toward the end of our visit and were surprised by the ornate-ness met with the modern commercialization of Christmas. Right behind the altar an extensive nativity scene complete with BLINKING Christmas lights. They were strung from the top balcony with the façade of Jesus all the way down to the floor around the manger.
We walked up and down the tights streets. The sidewalks are no wider than a 1.5 feet and the streets aren’t much larger than that. Of course, the drivers don’t know that as they continue to travel two wide and three if they can squeeze it. Of course, the buses take the right away…or the van that flipped a U at the top of a hill while 4 lanes of traffic looked and HONKED on as the drivers held their brakes, praying to save their transmissions.
The presidential palace is lovely with a yellow room, not mustard yellow though. It had a huge table, which would be great fun for dinner parties. The tour was a little less informative than other tours mainly because my Spanish wasn’t strong enough to interpret everything the guide said. My favorite part was the courtyard filled with about eight nativity scenes. They were made out natural products found in Ecuador including corn, cotton, and metals. Pretty impressive.
Finally, our tour took us to one of the highest hills, Panacilla, where the great Virgin looks over the city. There were also a few nativity characters to join her. They were 30 foot tall Magi and donkeys! Wow!
We walked up and down the tights streets. The sidewalks are no wider than a 1.5 feet and the streets aren’t much larger than that. Of course, the drivers don’t know that as they continue to travel two wide and three if they can squeeze it. Of course, the buses take the right away…or the van that flipped a U at the top of a hill while 4 lanes of traffic looked and HONKED on as the drivers held their brakes, praying to save their transmissions.
The presidential palace is lovely with a yellow room, not mustard yellow though. It had a huge table, which would be great fun for dinner parties. The tour was a little less informative than other tours mainly because my Spanish wasn’t strong enough to interpret everything the guide said. My favorite part was the courtyard filled with about eight nativity scenes. They were made out natural products found in Ecuador including corn, cotton, and metals. Pretty impressive.
Finally, our tour took us to one of the highest hills, Panacilla, where the great Virgin looks over the city. There were also a few nativity characters to join her. They were 30 foot tall Magi and donkeys! Wow!
Monday, December 21, 2009
la fiesta familia
Jorge befriended my folks when they came to visit last June. He has a cousin in Casper who taught my mom Spanish. So Jorge and my parents were excited to connect. Since that first meeting, Jorge became like family and introduced his friends and family and country. Jorge had been our chauffeur from the airport; in fact he stayed until 2am while we were stuck in Guayaquil and then came again the next day. So Sunday, we celebrated our arrival and the Christmas holiday with our new Ecuadorian family.
Jorge lived in the states for some time and speaks fairly good English but the rest of his family doesn’t. Especially Papi, he just speaks slower and louder. Sound familiar? But between my dad and I we were able to keep the conversation going, though my Spanish was rough. We talked about Casper and Quito, discussing the best parts of it all. I brought the Africa book I made so I got to show and tell about our trip. They loved the book and asked many questions about the people and costumes (ie the basutis worn for the wedding).
My mom made an excellent dinner of pasta and chicken with asparagus and salad. The fresh fruits and vegetables available in Quito make all meals quite enjoyable. Over dinner we discussed New Year’s Eve. Jorge was disappointed that I couldn’t stay for the New Year; he thought it poor planning and I really didn’t have a good excuse for getting back. There are many traditions with their holidays but this day has some pretty spectacular ones. For one, the men dress up as widows, skirts, wigs, and all, though the facial hair usually remains. Eek! In this outfit they panhandle from car to car which most people give into for the sheer fun of the day. People also make dolls out of sawdust in the images of various famous people such as the president, soccer teams, and actors. At midnight, the dolls are set on fire to symbolize the ending of one year and the beginning of another. Even if the soccer team was great, a new year brings new opportunities and groups to the forefront. Finally, people sometime dress up in yellow and red and run around town in joyous fun. The women are found usually in a yellow top bikini with red bottoms. Finally, I had an excuse as I had forgotten my suit at home. The ladies offered to take me shopping for such apparel so no excuses were left.
Finally we exchanged gifts. They gave Daniel and I pouches filled with candy, a traditional gift for children. My folks received a CD of Ecuadorian music and a bag of cosmetics (for my mom) including anti-wrinkle cream and deodorant. (Are they hinting at something.) My dad gave the family pictures of their reunion at the airport and other celebrations. They all enjoyed it very much. The evening came to an end maybe sooner than usual, but with the exertion in trying to remember Spanish and the long day for everyone. So the universal debate over who would take home certain leftovers commenced until we ended up with a key lime moose and they took the brownies. Oh such fun, even the clean up with Mamma Mia in the background. It was certainly of evening of Fiesta!
Jorge lived in the states for some time and speaks fairly good English but the rest of his family doesn’t. Especially Papi, he just speaks slower and louder. Sound familiar? But between my dad and I we were able to keep the conversation going, though my Spanish was rough. We talked about Casper and Quito, discussing the best parts of it all. I brought the Africa book I made so I got to show and tell about our trip. They loved the book and asked many questions about the people and costumes (ie the basutis worn for the wedding).
My mom made an excellent dinner of pasta and chicken with asparagus and salad. The fresh fruits and vegetables available in Quito make all meals quite enjoyable. Over dinner we discussed New Year’s Eve. Jorge was disappointed that I couldn’t stay for the New Year; he thought it poor planning and I really didn’t have a good excuse for getting back. There are many traditions with their holidays but this day has some pretty spectacular ones. For one, the men dress up as widows, skirts, wigs, and all, though the facial hair usually remains. Eek! In this outfit they panhandle from car to car which most people give into for the sheer fun of the day. People also make dolls out of sawdust in the images of various famous people such as the president, soccer teams, and actors. At midnight, the dolls are set on fire to symbolize the ending of one year and the beginning of another. Even if the soccer team was great, a new year brings new opportunities and groups to the forefront. Finally, people sometime dress up in yellow and red and run around town in joyous fun. The women are found usually in a yellow top bikini with red bottoms. Finally, I had an excuse as I had forgotten my suit at home. The ladies offered to take me shopping for such apparel so no excuses were left.
Finally we exchanged gifts. They gave Daniel and I pouches filled with candy, a traditional gift for children. My folks received a CD of Ecuadorian music and a bag of cosmetics (for my mom) including anti-wrinkle cream and deodorant. (Are they hinting at something.) My dad gave the family pictures of their reunion at the airport and other celebrations. They all enjoyed it very much. The evening came to an end maybe sooner than usual, but with the exertion in trying to remember Spanish and the long day for everyone. So the universal debate over who would take home certain leftovers commenced until we ended up with a key lime moose and they took the brownies. Oh such fun, even the clean up with Mamma Mia in the background. It was certainly of evening of Fiesta!
la familia de la manana
Sunday was dedicated to the family from that of the Holy Mother Mary at church to Jorge and folks at dinner. The morning began early with a visit to Advent St. Nicholas Church, a small international, English-speaking church. My father and I sang in the choir complete with a seven-minute rehearsal before the service. Then the Marken family recited the Advent Lighting reading as Daniel and I lit the four candles. Yes, indeed only a few more days until Christmas; no more candles to light but Christ’s! The service was enjoyable and certainly traditional but amazingly ecumenical. People from all over the world and from various faith backgrounds participated in worship and the cookie/coffee hour afterward.
I really appreciated the “Adult Forum” after church that focused in part on discussing the results of Coppenhagen. I have a good idea of various effects climate change is affecting my friends in East Africa, but the weather reports and dire circumstances of this Latin American country are just as grave. One gentleman offered an article by a Chilean editor who stated that climate control had to start much deeper than mere practices and reductions of production. The change must come with an attitude change about growth. The idea and goal of growth is causing ever-higher amounts of pollution. Why do we seek to grow when sustainability might be just as beneficial to our lives and more so in time to come? From here we must think about reaching a happy medium by finding a level of sustainability for “developing” nations and an acceptable compromise for those who over produce. The world “developing” is even a misnomer and cause for confusion if sustainability is a new goal. How far does a nation need to develop? How much motivation and self-worth does development and growth provide?
After church and the multiple conversations with diplomats, retired engineers turned photographers, and schoolteachers, we traveled north to the equator. Traveling is unique anywhere I travel. Even folks from Spokane, a wintery city, have a much different mindset than those in the winter-windyland of Casper. Picture Quito as a cross between San Francisco and Kigali, Rwanda. There are tremendously steep inclines that wind around and around the various hills of Quito. Taxis do not mind such topographical challenges though; they go 60 mph regardless, up or down the hills. Thankfully, taxis do not include motorcyclist, or not many, so only a few brave souls swerve in and out of traffic. Stop signs read PARE, which in theory read STOP but in reality mean HONK or SPEED UP. Even the buses, which have their own lane, go mock speed until 3 meters before the bus stop. If one is not holding on to a rail or seating down with hands braced, one’s face would be kissing the windshield, or 20 of your new, closest friends. Finally, though the roads are good and traffic moves fairly smoothly from lane to lane (open space to open space) the rationing of electricity created automatic gridlock. I think the police guard hired on 25 new officers just to man the major intersections and direct traffic.
So we traveled in a friend’s car to the equator, enjoyed a buffet of traditional Ecuadorian food including plantains, cold shrimp/tomato soup, and fresh avocados. Don’t worry RU, they had potatoes and rice, too, so you and Daniel could have had a pleasant meal together. (I skipped the flan.) Oddly enough, we saw another family from our delayed airline enjoying the buffet. I didn’t say hi but I somehow felt like recommending a dish to my flying companions. The equator has a large monument with a world on top and several dozen touristy, market shops around. The equator must create a magnet between “local” art and me because I bought my first Ecuadorian purchase at a lovely gallery. We took a long taxi ride home in time for a bit of down time then dinner prep. Oh my dinner!
I really appreciated the “Adult Forum” after church that focused in part on discussing the results of Coppenhagen. I have a good idea of various effects climate change is affecting my friends in East Africa, but the weather reports and dire circumstances of this Latin American country are just as grave. One gentleman offered an article by a Chilean editor who stated that climate control had to start much deeper than mere practices and reductions of production. The change must come with an attitude change about growth. The idea and goal of growth is causing ever-higher amounts of pollution. Why do we seek to grow when sustainability might be just as beneficial to our lives and more so in time to come? From here we must think about reaching a happy medium by finding a level of sustainability for “developing” nations and an acceptable compromise for those who over produce. The world “developing” is even a misnomer and cause for confusion if sustainability is a new goal. How far does a nation need to develop? How much motivation and self-worth does development and growth provide?
After church and the multiple conversations with diplomats, retired engineers turned photographers, and schoolteachers, we traveled north to the equator. Traveling is unique anywhere I travel. Even folks from Spokane, a wintery city, have a much different mindset than those in the winter-windyland of Casper. Picture Quito as a cross between San Francisco and Kigali, Rwanda. There are tremendously steep inclines that wind around and around the various hills of Quito. Taxis do not mind such topographical challenges though; they go 60 mph regardless, up or down the hills. Thankfully, taxis do not include motorcyclist, or not many, so only a few brave souls swerve in and out of traffic. Stop signs read PARE, which in theory read STOP but in reality mean HONK or SPEED UP. Even the buses, which have their own lane, go mock speed until 3 meters before the bus stop. If one is not holding on to a rail or seating down with hands braced, one’s face would be kissing the windshield, or 20 of your new, closest friends. Finally, though the roads are good and traffic moves fairly smoothly from lane to lane (open space to open space) the rationing of electricity created automatic gridlock. I think the police guard hired on 25 new officers just to man the major intersections and direct traffic.
So we traveled in a friend’s car to the equator, enjoyed a buffet of traditional Ecuadorian food including plantains, cold shrimp/tomato soup, and fresh avocados. Don’t worry RU, they had potatoes and rice, too, so you and Daniel could have had a pleasant meal together. (I skipped the flan.) Oddly enough, we saw another family from our delayed airline enjoying the buffet. I didn’t say hi but I somehow felt like recommending a dish to my flying companions. The equator has a large monument with a world on top and several dozen touristy, market shops around. The equator must create a magnet between “local” art and me because I bought my first Ecuadorian purchase at a lovely gallery. We took a long taxi ride home in time for a bit of down time then dinner prep. Oh my dinner!
Saturday, December 19, 2009
Today: as GOOD as it's been
Safe and sound. Oh it feels good to be in one place. As we flew over Quito, Ecuador, it reminded me of the bananas the country is so famous for exporting. It’s a long, long city but about only 4 miles wide. All the while, the rolling hills and surrounding mountains/volcanoes popped out of the clouds like the bowl rim of a banana split. Quito is quite green these days even though the current drizzle, overcast weather is “as bad as it’s been,” at least since my folks arrived in August. As bad as it’s been was a common phrase today about the weather, mora berries which were unusually tart, and quiet on the sidewalks and streets due to the absence of vendors. I’m sure Daniel and I will get to experience all of these nuances in their full splendor. All these attributes would have paled in comparison to seeing our folks anyway, so it was fine to experience them in low light in the beginning.
Our friend Jorge picked us up from the airport though this city has as many yellow taxis as NYC. Jorge was with my parents until all hours of the night yesterday and even brought me roses and Daniel a birthday cake. I’m sorry we had to disappoint them with our late arrival but spirits were just as high when we touched down and walked through the gate. In fact, the whole plane erupted into applause when the plane landed in Quito. Relief finally.
I saw an interesting advertisement that had two cops holding the arms of a bag guy with money falling out of his pockets. It said “Dile no al lavado…” I came to understand it as a warning advertisement that the government takes money laundering seriously. I know lavado was wash so I patted myself on the back for connecting the dots. I saw Toys R Us as Mi Jugueteria! (The R is backwards in that one too!) All the while back from the airport to my parent’s casa my dad played the tour guide. And quite a job he did! I now know how to figure out north and south, so long as I can see the Pichincha (an active volcano) or take Amazonas street. I know the area where streets are named after the different Galapagos Islands. I also appreciate the beautiful flower stands along the way. I found fresh roses in both my room and bathroom because they are super cheap. 12 roses: 1 dollar!
Highlights for the day include:
* Eating fresh fruit.
* Greeting all the guards I met in Spanish and them practically jumping out of their chairs to shake my hand.
* Having waffles for dinner and then birthday cake.
* Chatting with my mom on my blow up bed.
* Resting assured that we’re all together in a good place.
Our friend Jorge picked us up from the airport though this city has as many yellow taxis as NYC. Jorge was with my parents until all hours of the night yesterday and even brought me roses and Daniel a birthday cake. I’m sorry we had to disappoint them with our late arrival but spirits were just as high when we touched down and walked through the gate. In fact, the whole plane erupted into applause when the plane landed in Quito. Relief finally.
I saw an interesting advertisement that had two cops holding the arms of a bag guy with money falling out of his pockets. It said “Dile no al lavado…” I came to understand it as a warning advertisement that the government takes money laundering seriously. I know lavado was wash so I patted myself on the back for connecting the dots. I saw Toys R Us as Mi Jugueteria! (The R is backwards in that one too!) All the while back from the airport to my parent’s casa my dad played the tour guide. And quite a job he did! I now know how to figure out north and south, so long as I can see the Pichincha (an active volcano) or take Amazonas street. I know the area where streets are named after the different Galapagos Islands. I also appreciate the beautiful flower stands along the way. I found fresh roses in both my room and bathroom because they are super cheap. 12 roses: 1 dollar!
Highlights for the day include:
* Eating fresh fruit.
* Greeting all the guards I met in Spanish and them practically jumping out of their chairs to shake my hand.
* Having waffles for dinner and then birthday cake.
* Chatting with my mom on my blow up bed.
* Resting assured that we’re all together in a good place.
Friday, December 18, 2009
landing...wait
If I thought I had missed flying, my knees are reminding me that in fact I do not. Especially when final destinations are circled around for 30 minutes and then avoided all together. The monitors show the temperature and flight level which is cool until I realized that the 75 degrees was decreasing rapidly with altitude. It didn’t take a chemistry degree to realize we were headed up and out. The pilot took us south to Guayaquil to refuel and reassess our situation. The fog had prevented our landing and lack of fuel had kept us from circling a couple times. Four hours on a plane is no big deal in the grand scheme of things but when 4 turns to 6 or 7 (still up in the air ☺) the body turns cranky.
In order to content us on the ground during the refuel and wait since we couldn’t leave the plane, the flight attendants offered a movie. I thought I hope we’re not here long enough to finish this movie. Well their video system is so “sophisticated” it didn’t allow us to watch a film. I should say any show apart from the “Welcome to Flying…please fasten your seatbelt…”
And they had promised GI Joe. Bummer!
The day is still young, it’s only 9:34 PST but by time I finally hug the parents, it will be tomorrow and we’ll all be ready to fall over into bed. I picture them waiting like little puppies for the owners to come home, only to fall asleep on the rug until the garage door opens. We’re still on the ground in our “temporary” stop. I hope that’s the case though a recent phone call from the folks is a bit discouraging. They walked outside but couldn’t see through the fog in front of them.
Status update soon?
Yes- I write the final bit from a hotel in our “temporary” stop. It’s a night’s rest that will certainly be too short and not really restful with the knowledge we’re a mere 20-minute flight from our original destination. It’s like landing in Coeur d’Alene and not being able to get to Spokane. I might attempt to drive it but our bags are locked up in the airplane since we have yet to go through customs. And I hear the roads are crazy crooked. And really who wants to rent a car in Spanish at 2am.
It’s a good thing I have a toothbrush with me.
In order to content us on the ground during the refuel and wait since we couldn’t leave the plane, the flight attendants offered a movie. I thought I hope we’re not here long enough to finish this movie. Well their video system is so “sophisticated” it didn’t allow us to watch a film. I should say any show apart from the “Welcome to Flying…please fasten your seatbelt…”
And they had promised GI Joe. Bummer!
The day is still young, it’s only 9:34 PST but by time I finally hug the parents, it will be tomorrow and we’ll all be ready to fall over into bed. I picture them waiting like little puppies for the owners to come home, only to fall asleep on the rug until the garage door opens. We’re still on the ground in our “temporary” stop. I hope that’s the case though a recent phone call from the folks is a bit discouraging. They walked outside but couldn’t see through the fog in front of them.
Status update soon?
Yes- I write the final bit from a hotel in our “temporary” stop. It’s a night’s rest that will certainly be too short and not really restful with the knowledge we’re a mere 20-minute flight from our original destination. It’s like landing in Coeur d’Alene and not being able to get to Spokane. I might attempt to drive it but our bags are locked up in the airplane since we have yet to go through customs. And I hear the roads are crazy crooked. And really who wants to rent a car in Spanish at 2am.
It’s a good thing I have a toothbrush with me.
ALL i have is a stable
After directing another great Christmas Pageant at church with children of various ages and abilities, several big things popped out at me. Mary probably did wear rainbow-striped tights so long as they made them big enough for her belly. Joseph would have tried with all his might to provide the best care for Mary even if that meant holding hands with the donkey as they made their way to Bethlehem. Angels were probably dancing and skipping all around the shepherds intensifying their confusion and fear. And the Innkeeper would have given his room had he known who was staying in with his cows (even if his wife was a cranky old lady, a foot taller than him and with a formidable voice).
On the Inn and stable I focus these thoughts because I am currently experiencing housing issues. In the last week both of my roommates are moving or want to move out. Since there is no required lease, their departure could leave me with an empty inn and much lighter wallet. Joseph had a different problem as he tried to provide for his bride. No one had room. I’m sure he would have given a whole wad of bills for a space after such a long trip. But they were contented with a stable. The stable provided shelter away from wind and a bit of company, all be it bleating sheep. What Joseph did provide was a trust, comfort and bedside manner that allowed his new child and wife to rest as peacefully as if they were in a Hilton. In the end, this meager accommodation acted as the perfect backdrop for God’s major production of bringing his son into the world.
The parallels between Joseph’s story and mine are more like perpendiculars, but I think a lesson can be learned in both situations. We often focus on what we don’t have, the nice room, the money to pay for housing, and the roommates to make housing affordable. Instead, how can I look at this situation like Joseph and ask, “What can I do with ALL that I have?” I’m still wondering about my place. I’m sure roommates will show up and the house will again be filled with beautiful life. For now, I have a place where I can host others, have huge card games on the floor, and even provide space for those who need a quiet place. I also have an opportunity to reevaluate my “inn” situation and see if ALL that I have is being used in the best way. What I know from my incredible actors and Joseph is that ALL that we are and have is always more than all we don’t.
On the Inn and stable I focus these thoughts because I am currently experiencing housing issues. In the last week both of my roommates are moving or want to move out. Since there is no required lease, their departure could leave me with an empty inn and much lighter wallet. Joseph had a different problem as he tried to provide for his bride. No one had room. I’m sure he would have given a whole wad of bills for a space after such a long trip. But they were contented with a stable. The stable provided shelter away from wind and a bit of company, all be it bleating sheep. What Joseph did provide was a trust, comfort and bedside manner that allowed his new child and wife to rest as peacefully as if they were in a Hilton. In the end, this meager accommodation acted as the perfect backdrop for God’s major production of bringing his son into the world.
The parallels between Joseph’s story and mine are more like perpendiculars, but I think a lesson can be learned in both situations. We often focus on what we don’t have, the nice room, the money to pay for housing, and the roommates to make housing affordable. Instead, how can I look at this situation like Joseph and ask, “What can I do with ALL that I have?” I’m still wondering about my place. I’m sure roommates will show up and the house will again be filled with beautiful life. For now, I have a place where I can host others, have huge card games on the floor, and even provide space for those who need a quiet place. I also have an opportunity to reevaluate my “inn” situation and see if ALL that I have is being used in the best way. What I know from my incredible actors and Joseph is that ALL that we are and have is always more than all we don’t.
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