Monday, July 13, 2009

Traveling African Style

Monday July 13: As I experienced last week, travel is quite different in Africa than in the States.  After today’s trip I have ever more evidence to report of considering the uniqueness of the African way of moving. 

The final destination for today was Mukeu, Kenya.  This is a small village outside of Nairobi, the capital city which is located pretty close to the middle of the country.  So rather than book a 45 min flight for $300, the group of 8 bought bus tickets on Akamba Bus for a tenth of the price per ticket.  Now this ticket compared to those to Rwanda are almost double the price.  But every penny/shilling was worth it since we had double the luxury to Kenya.  We rode first class! 

First class provides reclining seat, enough elbow room to feel excessive, a small bite to eat when we boarded of Samosa and a French bread tasting treat sans the syrup, and drapes to cover the windows when the intense sun wants to share in the ride.  (A reminder about the previous bus: dust, people boarding randomly during the trip and sitting on my lap because oddly they sold all the seats but forgot to check the books, and musical accompaniment that was only enjoyable elevator music to a rock band, volume included.)  So I was a little overwhelmed at the possibility of riding 14 hours across the countryside in somewhat comfort. 

 

First class people here versus the States is a little bit more distinct.  If one were to ride business class on purpose, not a lucky upgrade on one’s honeymoon, a variety of accoutrements and activities would be quite visible.  First, Blackberry’s, iPhones, laptops, champagne or other spirits, poodles or their cousins, cockerdoodles and labradoodles for company, lots of jewelry and shiny watches, and suits are typical but the added bonus of a private lavatory, lots of leg room, a massage, and food that has more than a cardboard consistency make traveling bearable in the least.  In such accommodations patrons will busily work away on business projects, nap without disturbance, drink as they please, and think grand, profitable thoughts. Flying is necessary in order to make money with saved time.  I’m sure turbulence is even avoided near the front of the plane and if heaven forbid the flight encountered loss of cabin pressure, masks would drop to provide flavored oxygen.

Here, we appreciate the space not shared with 3 other people like on a taxi, room for our knees enough not to puncture the back of the person in front, and chances to get out to scrounge up food among the street vendors and relieve ourselves. 

Of course this last subject produces it’s own excitement and experience that is available regardless of the African ride.  Today I decided after 12 hours, I shouldn’t torture my bladder anymore, so I found a porcelain long drop.  In other words, the toilet had been suck into the ground and one has to do her best a) to make it in the hole, b) not be too zealous to avoid splashes, and c) try not to wonder why all the smooth service of white porcelain is reserved simply for catching as opposed to supporting as well.

But in the end, I greatest difference I observed was the use of time.  Apart from Jami and I who would be mugged of all our gadgets if we weren’t careful, everyone on the bus simply sat.  Some talked on their phones or read, but most people peered out the tinted windows at the changing sites from village to field to dirt.  And even I, despite finishing a book, writing a few blogs, and listening to music, am simply riding along, subject to any and every bump, stop, change of outside temperature and therefore increased cabin heat, and a day of traveling that seems as endless as the desert.


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